January 13, 2023
Village Visit
Today we embarked on our first adventure outside the city of Bangalore. We began at the Ramanagara silk market where experienced reelers could simply reach their hand into a large tray of silk cocoons and recognize the grade and quality of the silk. When asked how he knew the grade of silk, a reeler responded that he knew because he’d been doing this since he was a child.
Of all our travels in India thus far, this was the most out-of-place that I have felt. It was predominately male, and an area reserved for those with licenses to sell or buy typically; we were not expected, nor did we look the part. Despite this, several gentlemen were eager to answer our questions and share their expertise.
Mr. Sayed, a silk reeler and friend of the program for a few years, invited us to his home for insight on the next phase of the silk process. The floor of Mr. Sayed’s house served as the workshop for silk spinning and a dedicated workforce of seven sat or paced in the space, transforming silkworm cocoons into strung silk fiber. Mr. Sayed shared that he is in the practice of going to the market nearly daily to purchase cocoons, and each day (except Sundays!) the workers produce two kilos of spun fiber at about ₹4,500 each.
Next we visited the rural village of Kokrebellur. For 300 years this village has been home to villagers and their faithful friends: the spot-billed pelicans. The part of the sanctuary we expected to see was closed, but we still found the birds in the tree tops around the village. Again, there was a noticeable uptick in the interest people found in our presence and the resulting curious and confused stares. However, despite our unexplained presence, we were able to stroll through the village and get a glimpse of village life. On our quest to find a silk farmer’s home, we met Mahadeshwari Swamy and Puttamma Swamy, two residents of Kokrebellur. They shared about their simple diet choices: daily millet ball and after-dinner peanuts, which have allowed them to remain strong and sharp at the age of 76. They allowed us to hold their baby goats and even shared peanuts with us for our walk back, served in a bag because it was seen as unkind to just give them to us in our palms. I was struck by the generosity and openness of this village. Certainly, no one considered us as locals, yet we were engaged by smiling faces and excitement to share their knowledge and learn who we were.
We ended our daylight hours on a hike up a mountain featuring a 10th century Jain monument on top. The hike’s intense, though admittedly short, incline gain allowed us access to a panoramic view of the region. The lush greens below us captured my attention, and I finally appreciated the numerous trees that I had failed to appreciate from the ground below.
As someone who loves nature and needs frequent breaks from a city’s bustle, this day was a treat. My favorite moment was as simple as catching the sunset as I waited for the bathroom. The only sounds interrupting the stillness being birds, an occasional distant horn and my peers. I was grateful for the space and time that this day out of the city allotted for. Personally, I am used to cultivating silence in my day, and today it was less of a fight to achieve. As always, the people we meet or pass by every day bring me great joy. The smile that spreads across their face when they are seen, and they know they are seen is very human, and it brings a smile to my own.
